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The B7500 or similar models (7100,7300,7400)have been around for a long time and will probably continue to be. Loaders are readily available and esp. aftermarket loaders will be around in the future. The BX2200 is much newer but with its high popularity, it will also be around in the future. IMHO, if you want to wait a few years, I dont see any problems with finding a loader later. As far as a blade, most front blades are attached the loader and therefore, in your case not an issue. Go with the rear blade which is also cheaper and I think easier to use. As far as renting a loader, never seen one rented. Loader require mounting brackets and plates which have to be bolted on prior to mounting a loader and therefor renting is not really a viable option. As far as renting a tractor and loader call around to a few rental places and check on price in your area. If you rent, a trailer will be needed to haul it or the rental place will charge to deliver. For me the 3 major tools used with a tractor are the mower, loader and blade. With those 3 implements you can accomplish most tasks.

Compelling case for loader
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 9 Post by mike dewald

I think in the above situation, a tiltmeter would not have been helpful. This was a case of not enough rear end weight to provide enough braking. Even on slight downhill grades, or wet grass, a tractor with a FEL (even empty) and without ballast or loaded tires, the tractor is going to have a problem stopping. I have a short, moderately steep grade on my property and everytime I use it I expect to slide slightly with the rear end (without MFWD engaged). I only go down it with an empty loader. In this case the only thing she could have done was 1.Never attempt the decent. 2.Lower the loader to act as a brake and to increase the weight on the rear end to improve the rear end braking. A 3rd option that is very helpful is to engage the MFWD and with most of the weight on the front end will also stop the sliding. With MFWD engaged, braking the rear tires should result in breaking on the fronts.
Backing down steeper hills is also a recommend practice with the MFWD engaged.

Tractor Roll Over
Tractor Projects
Replies 27 Post by mike dewald

Concerning the PTO driven posthole diggers, the Danuser F8 is the best but its also expensive. For 1.5 miles of fence an economical pto digger should work fine for clay and small rock type soil like yours. Typically, these are in the $350-450 range. In my area, these are often at autions and sell for around $200-250 including auger. Numerous manufactures and are similar in construction. If you have lots of rocks or trees, then consider the hydraulically driven diggers which will stop when meeting an unmoveable force instead of breaking the shear pin on PTO driven models. Hydraulic ones can also be reversed when stuck. For putting in posts around 5" in diameter, I would recommend a 9" auger. A 9" auger in my opinion is the most used of any auger I own. (I also have 6",16" and 24" augers) A 9" hole allows good tamping of the soil around the post and yet it is not such a large hole that requires a lot of filling. Once the auger gets over 12" in diameter, then your will probably want a more heavy duty digger. I have both a PTO diven auger and recently purchased a used bobcat model 15 hydraulic auger that mounts on my loader. I have a feeling the PTO digger will probably see little use from now on. I often had to add weights on the PTO auger to get good digging in clay soil. With the loader mounted digger there is no stopping. The bobcat digger can use 36" bits.

Which post hole digger
Operating and Attachments
Replies 4 Post by mike dewald

Helpful hint when hooking up 3 pt equipment. If you have a loader on the tractor use it to help with hook up. Back up to the implement with lift arms near the pins of implement. Rotate the bucket edge nearly all the way down. Next lower the loader to place much of the weight of the front end on the bucket. Then tip the bucket one way or the other to move tractor slightly. Attach the draft arm with is now aligned properly. Next tip the bucket again to move the tractor and align the other draft arm and attach it. Use the loader to move the tractor/implement to align it and not your back or muscles. This method will also hold the tractor in place if on a slight incline. As L. Sheaffer said, a pry bar is not needed. Also like he said, align the lower draft arm first if the arms aren't the same height. Once the lower arm is attached, use the tractor lift to raise the other side to the proper height.

Telescoping draft links
John Deere Tractors
Replies 17 Post by mike dewald

The price is not bad for that size of JD. However, the hours are quite high. Most tractors of that size are near the end of their life with that many hours. Has it been overhauled? New clutch? Condition of hydraulics? PTO clutch? Condition of tires? Wide front end? I would be concerned with that number of hours unless it has had a close examination. 4020's were more popular than 4010's. An excellent condition 4020 will bring about $10000 to $12000 in my area.

4010 price check
John Deere Tractors
Replies 4 Post by mike dewald

I think Jim hit it right on. I have a 16' lowboy type trailer to carry my Kubota 3710 and to carry a AC D19 and JD 5300. Trailer is rated for 10,000 lbs with fold up ramps.. Wish I had a 18-20 trailer when I also transport implements. Both the Kubota and JD have FEL. The D19 is physically to long for any FEL or attachments. My trailer is a bumper pull but for heavy loads a goose-neck is recommended to decrease trailer sway. I have mobile-home type axles (rated for 12,000 lbs) and tires and don't have any problems. Brakes on both axles are a must. Also look for heavy duty tie down rings/hooks. Most trailers have little in the way or fastening heavy loads. I added rings to my trailer (front and back). Dove tail would be nice but not critical.

Tractor Trailering
Tractor Projects
Replies 21 Post by mike dewald

Bird's and Tom's comments are correct. It will depend on the loader hydraulic valves and hydraulic system on the B7100 if a "T" would work. Unfortuately I don't remember the B7100 hydraulics well enough and the model I had did not have the hydraulic block. Ask your Kubota dealer. He should be able to help. I frequently ask my dealer such questions and he seems more than happy to help. You should be able to find a solution.

Directional Control Valve
Kubota Tractors
Replies 17 Post by mike dewald

I agree with Roger Loving. There are many good aftermarket loader companies. Great Bend, Westendorf, Allied, Woods and Koyker to name a few. I have used Great Bend, Westendorf and Koyker, as well as John Deere and Kubota. Sometimes having the same brand as the tractor allows the loader to fit slightly better. Aftermarket brands use the same loader for different makes of tractors and sometimes the fit, operator friendliness and speed the loader of is different. As far a durability between different companies I don't have any complaints. An issued your should be aware of is sometimes using an aftermarket loader on a tractor may void the tractor warranty if the loader damages the tractor. My Kubota dealer told me a story of a guy using a Westendorf loader on a L7310 and the tractor broke in half. Kubota fixed that tractor but told the dealer they would no longer honor any other warranties for damage done by other loaders. They stated the mountings were different than used by Kubota and that resulted in the failure.

Buying a loader JD or Great Bend
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by mike dewald

Wen: I own both a JD5300 and a Kubota 3710GST. Both are MFWD with loaders. The Kubota has R4 tires and the JD ag tires. I don't have personal experience with the Kubota M series. M series are not sold in my state (NE). NE requires Univ. of NE testing of all tractors over approx.45-50 hp. Since Agriculture rules in this state,(dominated by JD, Case/International, AGCO and NewHolland) it was not worth it for Kubota to undergo testing. I heard it costs about $15- 25,000 per model for the testing. Getting back to your question, the JD5310 is the newer version of my 5300. The 5300 is a great utility tractor esp. with the MFWD. Very solid and is the utility workhorse for our farm. 1500 hrs and little repair. MFWD is what makes all compact and utility tractor great and this is even more critical with a FEL. My only significant repair to the JD was replacing a pin in the front end. I was performing dirt removal of hard dry dirt with all wheels engaged, a heavy 1000LB blade on the back and rear tires filled with fluid. Normally, the loader can just lift the back end of the tractor without the blade on. When trying to lift and dig in hard dirt, this puts tremendous strain on the front end which now carries the weight of the tractor,loader and more. R4 tires will spin, but Ag tires with good traction and weight are too much stress. Luckily for me the pin sheared. $10 pin, $225 labor bill. JD utility tractors are all mechanical in the MFWD unlike large AG tractors which have a separate clutch for the front end. The clutch will slip if excessive force is applied, the mechanical will break. 3-4 different JD dealer all said this was the first repair of a MFWD on a utility tractor they had performed - says a lot for JD.

Kubota's on the otherhand are also a great tractor. My brother and I have both owned B7100 with over 3000 hrs combined and almost no repair other than miscellaneous items and maintenance. The 3710 is also following in that tradition. Overall, I believe Kubota is the most reliable tractor made and I have owned Ford, Allis, JD, and Case/International. You will be happy with either. The Kubota is more HP but unless you are doing serious lugging and implement work, the JD should be able to handle most tasks. I trailer my JD and 3710. I don't know the weight of the M6800 but that maybe excessive unless you have a very good trailer. Good luck in your decision. You will be satisfied with all three models. Get what suits you the best.

JD5210-JD5310-or-Kubota-M6800
John Deere Tractors
Replies 12 Post by mike dewald

David: Kasco manufacturing has a web site. www.kascomfg.com. I personally don't know any specifics about their products. Looking at the website may be helpful. Website does give regional reps and dealers.

snow
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 5 Post by mike dewald

Chris, I have used a post-hole digger many times on small compact tractors. I have used as small as a kubota B7100 (approx 17hp) without significant trouble. Post hole diggers generally run a low RPM but power did not seem to be a problem. The key is go slow and raise the lift arms if digging to quickly. Occassionally, the kubota did not have enough lifting force to raise the digger if going in to fast. In these cases it would usually lift if I rocked the tractor slightly back and forth. The JD4100 has much more lifting ability than my kubota 7100. My biggest problem is usually getting the digger to go into hard or dry soil - occassionally needed to add weight to the post hole digger. I would not have any reservations about using a 9 inch digger on a JD4100.

John Deere 4100
Operating and Attachments
Replies 9 Post by mike dewald